“Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ears; I come to praise Rome, not to bury it!” Okay, so maybe that’s not how the actual Shakespeare quote goes, but when talking about Rome it’s fine to take some creative liberty. With a history that spans over two thousand years Rome is often considered the quintessential city solely responsible for the advancement of Western Civilization. Located in the central-western portion of the Italian Peninsula on the Tiber River, Rome is the third most visited tourist spot in the European Union and it’s historic center is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It’s also the capital of Italy (obviously.)
So what’s there to do when doing as the Romans do? Let’s start with the basics. The Colosseum and the Pantheon are the two obvious must sees for those making their virgin trip to Rome. After enjoying the visual and historic feast embodied by these storied structures, venture on over to a few lesser known but equally impressive historic sites like the Roman Forum – where the first Senate ever used to meet - and The Catacombs – where a lot of dead Romans “live.” And then there are the churches. St. Pietro is located in the Vatican and is actually where the pope hangs out. San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane is known for it’s gorgeous interior design and being the first commissioned work of Francesco Borromini. Don’t forget about the Trevi Fountain! This ancient yet pristine Baroque fountain is well known for not only providing some of the best photo ops in the city, but also for creating the legend that those who throw a coin into it’s peaceful waters are ensured a return visit to Rome. Will it accept credit card too?
Sunny. Mild. Temperature of 57.45°F. Winds WSW 9.33mph. Humidity will be 48% with a dewpoint of 38° and feels-like temperature of 57.45°F. Hi: 57° F, Low: 41° F.
Tomorrow's forecast
Partly cloudy. Mild. Temperature of 56.71°F. Winds SW 11.2mph. Humidity will be 67% with a dewpoint of 46° and feels-like temperature of 56.71°F. Hi: 57° F, Low: 42° F.
What I wouldn’t give to be a fly on the wall at the Roman Forum. Well, they didn’t really have “walls” per se, so I guess I’d have to be a fly on the column or a fly on the toga. Seriously though, the Roman Forum is simply one of those “wow” locations one must visit when in Rome. Not only did it used to be the economic hub of this amazing ancient civilization, but it’s also considered to be the birthplace of Democracy. See, long before we had CSPAN or Capitol Hill, the Roman senate as well as the Republican government formed and met in this massive expanse. Occasionally referred to as Forum Magnum or just the Forum, this central area is located between Palatine hill and Capitoline hill just a stone’s throw away from the Colosseum. Essentially think of the Roman Forum like this: imagine if Times Square, Las Vegas and Washington D.C had a baby back in ancient Roman times. It was the center of everything in those days. Unfortunately, when the Roman Empire fell, the Forum became forgotten and buried – it was even used as a cattle pasture during the Middle Ages. Thankfully over the years many of the original structures have been excavated and refurbished. Although clearly not at their former glory, several structures including the arch of Titus and the arch of Septimius Severus are still in quite good shape. Visit the Roman Forum for a good idea of what life was really like back in ancient Roman times.
For those visiting the Colosseum and expecting it to look similar to the version depicted in the Ridley Scott’s Oscar winning film Gladiator, please keep in mind – it was just a movie. Although the present day Colosseum doesn’t quite resemble the computer generated version created in the Russell Crowe film, the building standing today has quite a lot to admire. For one – it’s still standing (it’s survived many a earthquake and stone robbers)! Completed in 80 AD under the reign of Titus, the Colosseum is located just east of the Roman Forum and is a massive stadium/amphitheater capable of seating over 50,000 spectators during its prime. Long considered one of the greatest accomplishments in early Roman architecture and engineering, this epic structure still casts an imposing and awe-inspiring shadow upon all who see it. Back in the day it used to be used for such public spectacles like battle reenactments, gladiatorial games, animal hunts and – of course – good old fashioned executions. Thankfully those types of events aren’t held there today, and the Colosseum is currently a major tourist attraction drawing thousands of visits from all over the world hoping to gaze upon this feat of architecture and history.
The Trevi Fountain is one of those historic sites that kinda catches people off guard. One second you’re walking down a typical cobblestone street in Rome entranced by the culture and people, and the next you’re face to face with this awe-inspiring masterwork of architecture, design and – of course - water. As the light from the sun plays masterfully off the flowing blue water and the pristine marble statues echo Rome’s history and culture, one can’t help but be overwhelmed by the beauty of it all. Extending about 85 feet high and about 65 feet wide, the Trevi is the largest Baroque fountain in the city. Commissioned by Pope Clement XII in 1732, the fountain was actually completed some thirty years later in 1762. With an imposing central statue of Neptune – god of the sea – riding a shell shaped chariot and being pulled by galloping sea horses, the Trevi’s artistic prominence is obvious at first sight, but is rather intricate upon closer inspection. Also, legend holds that those who toss a coin into the fountain are ensured a return trip to Rome at some point in their life. Not sure if that really is a legend or just the most brilliant marketing scheme ever created. FUN FACT: On average 3,000 Euros are thrown into the fountain every day. The money is collected at night and is used to subsidize a supermarket for the poor and homeless in Rome.
Here’s a tip for those ever stuck in the rain when in Rome. Don’t buy an umbrella! Instead, go check out the Pantheon – Not only is it a covered structure able to shield visitors from the Roman rain, but there’s also a large opening in the middle of the ceiling that allows for the rain to trickle through into the middle of this ancient structure. It’s a beautiful thing that can only be found in Rome. Speaking of beautiful things, the Pantheon (Greek for “Temple of all the gods”) was constructed in 126 AD during the reign of Hadrian and is often considered one of the best preserved buildings in the entire world. The oldest standing domed structure in all of Rome, the dome of the Pantheon has actually been copied by many famous Greek and Roman architects of the day as well as by Thomas Jefferson – who modeled his home Monticello and the Rotunda at the University of Virginia after it. And although much of the structure remains intact, traces of bronze throughout the building point to a large amount of the original bronze in the building being stolen over thousands of years. So, rain or shine, make sure to visit this perfectly preserved slice of history!
Once the capital of the world, Rome is a city where modernism meets timelessness and 3000 years of history echo with every click of a Prada stiletto on the cobblestones of Via del Corso. Vespas dodge clergymen as supermodels sip esspresso with poets in sidewalk cafés.
Easy to get to, with two airports and a massive network of public transportation, Rome’s Mediterranean climate is welcoming almost year-round, and the city can be relatively budget-friendly despite its international reputation as a destination. Cruise the Museo e Galleria Borghese to scope out the priceless works of Caravaggio, Botticelli, and Raphael for only € 8,50. If you’re in the mood to splurge, stroll the Via Veneto for the posh restaurants and shops. Connect with your inner gladiator at the Colosseum, and wash away the guilt of last night’s vino with a visit to the Vatican.
Take a bite of la dolce vita. The immemorial Rome is waiting!
Just came back from the Capuchin church- by far my favorite experience of the trip. Mentioned in the Marble Faun as the burial place for The Model after Donatello murdered him, the cemetery under the church is completely decorated by human bones. We were not allowed to take pictures, but the image was unforgettable- hundreds of skulls decorating the walls, ceiling, and as frames for artwork. The first room we entered was a regular room for prayer, with a picture of baby Jesus and Mary. In the wall, there is a sort of morbid time capsule, as a niece of one of the popes asked that her heart be preserved in the wall. The heart now looks like a cement block, but knowing a human heart inside gives the viewer a powerful impression of the religious fervor of ancient Romans.
Each room has a bone chandelier that hangs just feet above the head of the visitor. Everywhere you turn, a skull is staring back at you. It gives you an eerie feeling, but at the same time, it seems very peaceful. Human vertebrae decorate the roof of one room, while another has jawbones lining the walls. Actual corpses sit among the bones, completely decayed but still dressed in their monastic outfits. Crosses dot the dirt floor, signifying the final resting place of Capuchin monks. The word “capuchin” refers to the hoods of the monastic robes.
One room is designated as the pelvic-bone room, where three corpses stand leaning forward against the wall with a huge arch of hipbones lining the wall behind them. On the side walls, two corpses lay horizontally under arches of leg bones and of course, skulls.
The bones come from the bodies of monks and poor Romans. On the entryway to another room, a “winged skull” marks the entrance- a skull flanked by two hipbones, making the image of a skull with wings.
In the Marble Faun, Hawthorne describes how monks are buried in the cemetery of the Capuchin, but are unearthed every several years to create an empty grave for a new monk to be buried in. The graves in the crypt are visible, and look extremely shallow, as the dirt rises and falls over the silhouettes of the coffins buried just inches below the surface. While this type of situation would normally give me the creeps, I found it to be very calming and somber.
After checking out the cemetery, we went into the corresponding Capuchin church where they were doing a 5pm mass, so we decided to head out and do some shopping.
The girls and I went to several stores, where we actually found many affordable things. I bought a shirt- black, with a silky-screen fabric over the torso area. I thought it looked different from anything I’d seen in America.
This morning, we went on the Marble Faun walk at the Museco Capitolini with our small groups. The Museo was mildly interesting, but I enjoyed talking with my small group and joking around more than I enjoyed looking at the actual statue. Sadly, the marble faun “praxiletes” that we had come to see was away in the Louvre until June 18th. The statue is what The Marble Faun derives its name from, as the Americans deem the statue as a striking replica of Donatello. However, Scott told us about different forms of sculpture that I’d never thought about before. Gigantic, several thousand pound sculptures were balanced on three points, such as the three legs of a horse with one raised leg. As I’ve never been interested in architecture, I’ve never thought about the complexities of the art before.
Fabulous evening. I just returned from an excursion to Trastevere for dinner and shopping, and had a great time. On the bus ride back from Villa Adriana, Mike recommended that we go out to Trastevere for dinner, so 12 of us decided to together. After taking a very long walk (we didn’t figure out the shortcut until later), we wandered into a small restaurant that luckily could seat 12.
The service was at first terrible- they mixed up all of the orders, and when I ordered lasagna and a Roman artichoke I was told that they didn’t have either of those things. So I changed my order to ravioli in mushroom truffle sauce, and it was definitely one of the better decisions I’ve ever made. The ravioli came out with a grey speckled sauce, which scared me at first, but as soon as I tasted it I was hooked. They were two gigantic pasta pockets filled with spinach and ricotta, and covered in the grey mushroom sauce. I enjoyed it thoroughly, with vino bianco de la casa. Joelle speaks fluent Italian, so she helped us order, as the server seemed extremely clueless to our hand motions and my broken Spanish.
Last night, we went to a bar in Campo de Fiori, and had a great time. I spent the entire night speaking Spanish- by the end of the three hours; I literally had a headache from trying to remember words. I avoided any Americans or Italians who spoke English, and concentrated on trying to speak to the locals. I didn’t have any deep and meaningful conversations, but was proud that I could communicate with them. They were all extremely friendly and interested to hear about my experiences so far. I made a friend named Marco, who emailed me today in both English and Spanish.
After the bar, I went to get some gelato, but was thoroughly disappointed! I followed an Italian into a small shop, and decided to get the exact same flavor as the person in front of me, without asking what kind it was...I thought this was an adventurous approach, but the gelato tasted like straight alcohol. It practically made me gag.
Today, we also visited the Villa Adriana. Romolo guided us through the old estate of the emperor Adrian. The tour was a little less exciting than I had expected, but I did enjoy learning facts about the way the Romans lived. The part of the villa that impressed me most was the dining area. It was a platform, raised above a pool of water, which the emperor would lie down on so it would stretch his intestines to the full capacity and be able to eat as much as possible. Servants would come around with trays of food and serve him, as waterfalls fell around the platform and he had a wading pool to dip his feet in, in case he became too hot. Across from his lounging platform was a long pool, in which a raised platform stood in the middle where poets would recite plays for his amusement during mealtimes.
Tomorrow morning is the Marble Faun walk, and afterwards Christy plans on leading us to a church entirely made out of bones- I can’t wait to see it. Also, Kate and I plan on visiting Trastevere again- we saw some amazing shoes we want to go back and try on. The jewelry vendors are also much nicer across the river- much less aggressive, with better products. I bought a silver Italian horn necklace tonight for 8 euro- not bad. I also had the best gelato yet tonight- strawberry mixed with bacio, a chocolate flavor mixed with hazelnuts. It was excellent.
When it comes to a review of Rome, I could write for hours. The city is filled with the most unbelievable ruins, magnificent basilicas and of course, food that cannot even be described in words. It's just that good. I could go on for pages about the food alone, so I decided to focus on one of my favorites in Rome--the gelato. For those who may be unaware of this incredible and delectable treat, its the Italian version of ice cream. Think richer, more flavorful, and smoother than your typical ice cream. (And usually less fat, for those watching their waistlines!) There are numerous flavors that can satisfy anyone from chocolate lovers to fruit connoisseurs, and just about anything in-between. The best gelato in the entire city of Rome can be found at Old Bridge Gelataria, located on Via Bastioni di Michelangelo 5, very close to the entrance to the Vatican Museum. The portions are more than generous and the gelato is made on premise. They are home to some amazing flavors, my personal favorite being fresh blood orange. Though the name may sound a bit gruesome, it is made with fresh blood oranges, a dark red orange abundant in the Mediterranean. In fact, my mouth is watering as I write this. Anyways, great gelato can be found all over the city. My advice is try to find places off the beaten path, and keep your eye out for large crowds of local teenagers crowding after school lets out. The locals know whats best. Plus, gazing at the Trevi Fountain is a much better experience with a large cone of gelato in hand. Trust me.
The holidays had just ended, everyone was back to work, except for she and I. We were flying through Munich to the big city.... the eternal Rome. When most people think Rome, they think queen Audrey Hepburn, wall to wall moto-studs, and palm trees that have kept the secrets of those long gone centuries. I was thinking more like, wow, January, off season rates, and no tourists. It was in fact, just me, her and Rome, and nobody in shorts. Other than the gypsy woman that stole $200 from me through superb picket pocket trickery, I was experiencing a tangible italo-buzz from this city. From our private wine fests in the chilly courtyard outside our room, to the art beauty at Villa Borghese, to the long dead underground in the Catacombs of St Calixtus, we had felt the soul of all of corpus Romus. I shall return
Rome is basically amazing. The food, shopping, sites- they're all top notch. I am sooo not into the whole "touristy sightseeing" thing, but Rome did me in. I wouldn't dare check out the Vatican, Colosseum or Forum (all MUSTS) without a tourguide. You miss so much without some human encyclopedia leading the way. Dust off your fannypack and that passport thing you wear around the neck and hop on the bandwagon. If you want to escape from the old-timers, head to Jonathan's Angels for a beverage (Via della Fossa, 16 Rome, Italy). Tour books point out this place- and for good reason. It's covered with paintings and photos (I mean wallpapered) of the owner... who stares you down from the cash register he closely monitors. Hilarious. Be sure to check out the bathroom while you're there… one of the oddest I’ve seen.
In Italy, a meal is an event. Never have a sat down to eat lunch and had it last less than 2 hours in Rome. Our tour guide Salvo brought us into his cousin’s restaurant in Rome and sat us at a long table that reminded me slightly of the last supper. And we proceeded to eat. Eating is a large part of the culture in Italy, and in Rome it is no different. With literally thousands of restaurants to choose from, the problem isn’t what to eat, but rather where to eat. Traditional Roman dishes include homemade squid ink pasta and tripe. And of course, everything is served with wine!
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